If I recall correctly, the last time I hiked for more than a few hours in a day, I was 13. I had signed up for a two day (one night), 15-mile hike along the Appalachian Trail through the sleep-away camp in New Jersey where I spent a handful of Summers. Fast forward 15 years, and I’m researching 3-week treks through the Himalaya. Needless to say, I’m asking a lot of questions.
Trekking companies in Nepal are a dime a dozen. Luckily, I learned about Karnali Excursions during the Adventure Expo I attended earlier this year. I’m going to step out on a limb and suggest if a trekking company from Nepal can represent itself at a table for a weekend in Washington, DC, they must be doing something right (from a money/success standpoint, not necessarily that there are qualifications to be a part of the event).
After reading the very informative Trekking in Nepal, and reviewing the treks on Karnali’s web site, I began to correspond with them via e-mail. I obtained prices for treks in the two most popular regions of Nepal – the Annapurna Circuit ($1349) and Everest Base Camp ($1699). Both cover 25-26 total days, entailing 20 days of “moderate to strenuous” trekking with a guide and porter. The prices include transport to and from Kathmandu airport, accommodations, meals, and a tour of local sites when I first arrive.
The Annapurna Circuit is the most popular trek in Nepal, and as a result, would have more accouterments (and by that I’m talking filtered water at teahouses to save you some effort, not even porcelain toilets), be a little safer, and more populated with other trekkers. The Mt. Everest region is the second most popular area for trekking, and would be more rugged, difficult, and less populated. Both would get me up to about 15,000 feet in elevation. Given my desire to stick to a budget, and complete lack of trekking and high altitude experience, I intend to book a trek around the Annapurna Circuit. Still, the idea of seeing Mt. Everest in person (albeit it from very far away), sits idly in the back of my mind, taunting me.
*Snap out of it Dave*
So the Karnali guys have helped put many of my concerns about fitness (or lack thereof) and altitude sickness to relative rest. For example, when I asked about whether they carry a Gamow Bag, the response was only on higher altititude treks such as those in Tibet, however they would pack one at my request. I e-mailed one of their references, Mary, who had spent several years in Nepal with Habitat for Humanity. She had been a part of arranging dozens of treks through Karnali during her time there, and gave a resoundingly positive endorsement. I still intend to do a little checking around with other companies, just to see what is out there, however Karnali has so far, set the bar high.
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Categories: Adventures, Nepal, Planning
27 Comments
I am very envious of your planned trip. Personally, trekking to the Everest base camp is firmly on my list of ambitions, and has been for some time. To stand and stare in awe at the mountain and the might of mother nature would be simply breath-taking.
Apart from having to raise the cash to fund such a trip, my main other concern has always been my lack of experience. While my fitness is fine, like you, I have little experience of trekking and certainly none at altitude.
During your research have you found this to be a hindrance in any way, and how do companies view and gauge the experience of any potential clients?
I’m going to quote Jake who commented below, as he’s summited Everest twice –
“You do not need to be an ultra-marathoner by any means to do the treks, but should have a modicum of fitness”
That matches what I’ve read so far. The best training is cardio-oriented, such as walking, hills, and stairs. The response from a Karnali Excursions guide was that I should be fine (I told them I was 30, normal weight, etc). If I were older, heavier, or had some physical ailment to be concerned about (other than my weak quadriceps), I would probably consider a shorter trek. I’m more concerned about personal anxieties than physical fitness (I reserve the right to change my mind at 15,000 feet!).
From what I can tell, companies rate the treks as Easy/Moderate/Strenuous/Expert and leave much to the discretion of the client, unless it’s more of a climb-oriented expedition which requires technical skills. For example, I heard on some TV show last year that there are still companies that take clients up Mt. Everest without requiring that the people have climbed another 24,000+ foot peak first.
I would expect a company that has been in business a long time with positive references, has a good track record of matching clients to treks, or customizing those treks on the fly to account for different fitness levels. Actually, the book I read indicated that people are more likely to get ill with large groups because of the peer pressure to keep up. If I go with just a guide and porter, than we have more flexibility.
I am very envious of your planned trip. Personally, trekking to the Everest base camp is firmly on my list of ambitions, and has been for some time. To stand and stare in awe at the mountain and the might of mother nature would be simply breath-taking.
Apart from having to raise the cash to fund such a trip, my main other concern has always been my lack of experience. While my fitness is fine, like you, I have little experience of trekking and certainly none at altitude.
During your research have you found this to be a hindrance in any way, and how do companies view and gauge the experience of any potential clients?
I’m going to quote Jake who commented below, as he’s summited Everest twice –
“You do not need to be an ultra-marathoner by any means to do the treks, but should have a modicum of fitness”
That matches what I’ve read so far. The best training is cardio-oriented, such as walking, hills, and stairs. The response from a Karnali Excursions guide was that I should be fine (I told them I was 30, normal weight, etc). If I were older, heavier, or had some physical ailment to be concerned about (other than my weak quadriceps), I would probably consider a shorter trek. I’m more concerned about personal anxieties than physical fitness (I reserve the right to change my mind at 15,000 feet!).
From what I can tell, companies rate the treks as Easy/Moderate/Strenuous/Expert and leave much to the discretion of the client, unless it’s more of a climb-oriented expedition which requires technical skills. For example, I heard on some TV show last year that there are still companies that take clients up Mt. Everest without requiring that the people have climbed another 24,000+ foot peak first.
I would expect a company that has been in business a long time with positive references, has a good track record of matching clients to treks, or customizing those treks on the fly to account for different fitness levels. Actually, the book I read indicated that people are more likely to get ill with large groups because of the peer pressure to keep up. If I go with just a guide and porter, than we have more flexibility.
Im too much of a anti-tour person, so if I were to do the Annapurna circuit or basecamp it would be without guide . USD buys a lot in nepal, so the prices quite seem truly expensive. Id wait till I got there before doing price checks etc. Basecamp trek works out to be like 65odd a day..
i guess its the rogue long distance hiker in me that cant handle groups + guides….
but a guide/translator would be.. worth its own price…
id be _seriously_ envious of you doing either trek :)
the soloist in me would rather find a less travelled trek than Annapurna circuit or basecamp.
oh so envious!
Stu – the book I read goes in depth about hiring guides and porters independently, however it seems like quite a bit of responsibility. Going solo is also discussed, however that would be an undertaking best left for those with more experience than me.
I actually thought the package price was quite inexpensive considering it’ll cover most of my costs for a month’s stay in Nepal! :)
Im too much of a anti-tour person, so if I were to do the Annapurna circuit or basecamp it would be without guide . USD buys a lot in nepal, so the prices quite seem truly expensive. Id wait till I got there before doing price checks etc. Basecamp trek works out to be like 65odd a day..
i guess its the rogue long distance hiker in me that cant handle groups + guides….
but a guide/translator would be.. worth its own price…
id be _seriously_ envious of you doing either trek :)
the soloist in me would rather find a less travelled trek than Annapurna circuit or basecamp.
oh so envious!
Stu – the book I read goes in depth about hiring guides and porters independently, however it seems like quite a bit of responsibility. Going solo is also discussed, however that would be an undertaking best left for those with more experience than me.
I actually thought the package price was quite inexpensive considering it’ll cover most of my costs for a month’s stay in Nepal! :)
Wow. I’m so envious. Its nice you’re going awhile before me….helps my research!
I hear the taunting. I feel that way about Antartica, which I’m planning on hitting on my trip. The cost so widely varies though…I’m kind of clouded by the big trip, which is hugely expensive.
Glad to hear how everything is coming along!
Last Summer when I was mapping out an itinerary, I considered Antarctica, however I didn’t really spend a lot of time researching it. I decided to see how I was doing with money by the time I reach South America in early 2009 (I hope). If I’m doing really well, I might consider it, otherwise, I’ll scurry my way up to North America.
I have to admit, due to the costs of getting down to southern Argentina, let alone taking a tour, if I don’t go on this trip, I’m not holding out much chance of ever making it.
Wow. I’m so envious. Its nice you’re going awhile before me….helps my research!
I hear the taunting. I feel that way about Antartica, which I’m planning on hitting on my trip. The cost so widely varies though…I’m kind of clouded by the big trip, which is hugely expensive.
Glad to hear how everything is coming along!
Last Summer when I was mapping out an itinerary, I considered Antarctica, however I didn’t really spend a lot of time researching it. I decided to see how I was doing with money by the time I reach South America in early 2009 (I hope). If I’m doing really well, I might consider it, otherwise, I’ll scurry my way up to North America.
I have to admit, due to the costs of getting down to southern Argentina, let alone taking a tour, if I don’t go on this trip, I’m not holding out much chance of ever making it.
Dave & Geedos,
Sounds like you’ve got some good plans going, Dave. I’ve spent a lot of time in Nepal & Tibet – studying, working, teaching, writing my thesis, guiding treks and expeditions, etc. – and know it well. Both the Annapurna and Everest BC treks are wonderful and well worth the trip, although both are different in many ways. The big draw with the Khumbu Valley is, of course, seeing Everest…But, the reality is you don’t really get good, consistent views of Everest from the trek as it is mostly hidden behind the massive south face of Lhotse. (See this photo on my website, taken from Syangboche.) Even from the famous viewing spot atop Kala Pattar, the view is still somewhat stunted. To get the really dramatic, full views of Everest, you need to approach from the North via Tibet, as seen here from Everest’s Rongbuk Basecamp. Alternately, if you want a trek with amazing scenery that will get you 100% away from it all, try out the approach to Everest via the east side coming up the Kama and Kangshung Valleys. Absolutely stunning, and one of the most amazing parts of the Himalaya I have seen in nearly 20 expeditions there; here’s Everest and Lhotse (and others) at sunrise from Pethang Ringmo at 17,000 feet in the Kangshung Valley.
As for fitness, medical issues, etc., keep in mind that both Averest BC and Annapurna treks take you well above 15,000 feet. On the Annapurna Circuit, the crux of the climb is going over the Thorang La (Pass) at 17,500 feet, and the highpoint on the Everest BC trek is on Kala Pattar at about 18,000 feet. Both are very high – obviously – and care needs to be taken. You do not need to be an ultra-marathoner by any means to do the treks, but should have a modicum of fitness and the trekking outfitter should IMO carry a Gamow bag at all times. I have seen full-blown cases of HAPE and HACE down as low as 10,000 feet, and if that strikes a Gamow can be your only hope. An emergency bottle of medical oxygen – with a mask of course – is a good idea as well, and cheap insurance. Additionally, I would expect any reputable trekking company and guide service would have a good supply of high altitude drugs ready for use: oral dexamethasone (HACE), oral niphedipene (HAPE), and injectible dexamethasone (HACE). All are essential, and can be lifesaving.
Anyway, too much rambling…Good luck on the trip plans…And remember Stephen Bezruchka’s truism from “Trekking in Nepal”: Nepal is not there for you to change it. Nepal is there for it to change you.
All the best,
Jake Norton
MountainWorld Productions
Jake –
Thanks for taking the time to share some photos. It looks like you’ve seen Mt. Everest from all angles (including on top).
I appreciate your reinforcement of my interest in having a Gamow Bag around just to be safe. I’ll have to ask the tour companies about the drugs they carry as well.
I was actually surprised at how few hours I’d be hiking on some days, though I suppose if it’s uphill and at higher altitudes than I’m use to, I’ll have my work cut out for me.
Hi Dave,
No problem – hope some of the shots were helpful! I’d definitely insist on a Gamow, and check in on the drugs they will be bringing.
Some days will definitely be short, but it will help with acclimatization and give you a chance to explore the nooks and crannies of a given village or region.
No matter what, you’ll have a great time!!
Good luck, and raamro sanga jaanus! (“Safe travels” in Nepali.)
-Jake
Dave & Geedos,
Sounds like you’ve got some good plans going, Dave. I’ve spent a lot of time in Nepal & Tibet – studying, working, teaching, writing my thesis, guiding treks and expeditions, etc. – and know it well. Both the Annapurna and Everest BC treks are wonderful and well worth the trip, although both are different in many ways. The big draw with the Khumbu Valley is, of course, seeing Everest…But, the reality is you don’t really get good, consistent views of Everest from the trek as it is mostly hidden behind the massive south face of Lhotse. (See this photo on my website, taken from Syangboche.) Even from the famous viewing spot atop Kala Pattar, the view is still somewhat stunted. To get the really dramatic, full views of Everest, you need to approach from the North via Tibet, as seen here from Everest’s Rongbuk Basecamp. Alternately, if you want a trek with amazing scenery that will get you 100% away from it all, try out the approach to Everest via the east side coming up the Kama and Kangshung Valleys. Absolutely stunning, and one of the most amazing parts of the Himalaya I have seen in nearly 20 expeditions there; here’s Everest and Lhotse (and others) at sunrise from Pethang Ringmo at 17,000 feet in the Kangshung Valley.
As for fitness, medical issues, etc., keep in mind that both Averest BC and Annapurna treks take you well above 15,000 feet. On the Annapurna Circuit, the crux of the climb is going over the Thorang La (Pass) at 17,500 feet, and the highpoint on the Everest BC trek is on Kala Pattar at about 18,000 feet. Both are very high – obviously – and care needs to be taken. You do not need to be an ultra-marathoner by any means to do the treks, but should have a modicum of fitness and the trekking outfitter should IMO carry a Gamow bag at all times. I have seen full-blown cases of HAPE and HACE down as low as 10,000 feet, and if that strikes a Gamow can be your only hope. An emergency bottle of medical oxygen – with a mask of course – is a good idea as well, and cheap insurance. Additionally, I would expect any reputable trekking company and guide service would have a good supply of high altitude drugs ready for use: oral dexamethasone (HACE), oral niphedipene (HAPE), and injectible dexamethasone (HACE). All are essential, and can be lifesaving.
Anyway, too much rambling…Good luck on the trip plans…And remember Stephen Bezruchka’s truism from “Trekking in Nepal”: Nepal is not there for you to change it. Nepal is there for it to change you.
All the best,
Jake Norton
MountainWorld Productions
Jake –
Thanks for taking the time to share some photos. It looks like you’ve seen Mt. Everest from all angles (including on top).
I appreciate your reinforcement of my interest in having a Gamow Bag around just to be safe. I’ll have to ask the tour companies about the drugs they carry as well.
I was actually surprised at how few hours I’d be hiking on some days, though I suppose if it’s uphill and at higher altitudes than I’m use to, I’ll have my work cut out for me.
Hi Dave,
No problem – hope some of the shots were helpful! I’d definitely insist on a Gamow, and check in on the drugs they will be bringing.
Some days will definitely be short, but it will help with acclimatization and give you a chance to explore the nooks and crannies of a given village or region.
No matter what, you’ll have a great time!!
Good luck, and raamro sanga jaanus! (“Safe travels” in Nepali.)
-Jake
I don’t know what group she chose, but I thought this was a cute entry about someone’s trekking experience… http://blogs.bootsnall.com/Sarah+Marie/?p=33
Stacy – thanks for sharing . This is a great day-by-day account of a group trek to Everest Base Camp. :)
I don’t know what group she chose, but I thought this was a cute entry about someone’s trekking experience… http://blogs.bootsnall.com/Sarah+Marie/?p=33
Stacy – thanks for sharing . This is a great day-by-day account of a group trek to Everest Base Camp. :)
I’ve done the Everest trek – it is a great experience. Dharma tours, based in Nepal was the company that our US based tour organizer used to actually run the trip. They did a great job, and I highly recommend them.
I would advise against going without a guide. Make sure you aren’t going more than about 2,000 feet higher each day so you avoid the effects of altitude.
10 dollars a day the first few days and then 20 to 30 in higher altitudes. do not book anything in advance. IS NO NEED. Is super easy to do it yourself!
I couldn’t agree more! Thanks for the budgeting tip!
I’ve done the Everest trek – it is a great experience. Dharma tours, based in Nepal was the company that our US based tour organizer used to actually run the trip. They did a great job, and I highly recommend them.
I would advise against going without a guide. Make sure you aren’t going more than about 2,000 feet higher each day so you avoid the effects of altitude.
Sorry for the huge review, but I’m really loving the new Zune, and hope this, as well as the excellent reviews some other people have written, will help you decide if it’s the right choice for you.