Tramping the Tongariro Crossing

Posted by Dave on 18 December 2007.

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A rainbow greets us at the start of the crossing

I awoke from my slumber in Taupo to a chilly, cloudy, rainy morning. As I peered out the hostel window, I could barely see across the lake to the volcanoes I was hoping to climb.

The Tongariro National Park is a World Heritage site, and home to New Zealand’s #1 day hike (tramp) – The Tongariro Crossing. It’s an 11-mile (18km) hike between two active volcanoes, one of them being the infamous Mount Doom from Lord of the Rings fame (actual name = Mt Ngauruhoe).

The crossing is up the middle of this photo

I knew I could do the hike, however the numbers were a bit imposing. 11 miles up the side of a volcano, topping out at 5,700 vertical feet, which was far higher than I’d been before. The average time for the hike was 6-7 hours. I packed 2 liters of water, nuts, plenty of chocolate (for fast energy), granola bars, jerky, and a fresh chicken satay sandwich. I rented a fleece, wool mittens, and a hat for $5 NZD. I also wore my windbreaker (for rain), pants, Smart Wool socks, and hiking boots (though others were just fine in sneakers and shorts).

Karen and I grab a bite at the end of a climb up 1,800 vertical feet (crater behind)

The weather remained overcast most of the hike, and only started to clear once we had reached the back side of the crossing. My favorite part was walking along a ridge line between two craters, watching the clouds whip up one side and flow over to the other. While we missed out on what are some fantastic views of the countryside, it was hard to deny the ambiance created by the mist and clouds as we crossed volcanic terrain and craters. I completed the crossing in 5.5 hours, mostly while getting to know Karen from England. Afterward, I felt an amazing sense of accomplishment, and while my legs were sore for a few days, it was worth it.

Walking the cloudy ridge line between two craters

For those who were ambitious, an 8am start would allow time for the 3-hour return trip to the summit of Mt. Doom, though we ran into two guys who had done it and said they couldn’t see a thing, and it was quite hard to scramble up the volcanic scree to the crater. I have a good feeling about bagging a summit or two at some point further along in my trip!

Unwinding after a great hike!

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Bonus Video: Atop Tongariro Crossing

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This post was written by:

Dave - who has written 994 posts on Go Backpacking.

Dave Lee (Editor-in-Chief) blogged his way around the world from 2007-2009, and then started Travel Blog Success to teach others how to do the same. When not writing, he can be found salsa dancing, and lamenting his untimely departure from Medellin. Follow him on Twitter @rtwdave

Contact the author

Phil

Did you feel the earthquake that hit New Zealand?

Dave

Nope - can't say that I did. In fact, I've barely spent a moment on keeping up with the news - even the major geological events! I did read a full New Zealand newspaper once though, and they definitely focus on the environment more than us Americans.

Adrienne

Pics are so wonderful! I also agree with Phil - more food pics! :razz:

Dave

It shall be my next priority!

crambox

Rock on dave!!!! :mrgreen:

Stu

Dont fall into the crater dave! :razz:

Kai

my hoodie come in handy?

Dave

Hey Kai - absolutely appreciate the hooded sweatshirt in New Zealand. I've slept in it, used it when doing laundry, and it's fantastic for getting semi-comfortable on planes, ferries, and buses. From what I hear, Australia is going to be HOT though, so it remains to be seen if I hold onto it until China (which I believe will be chilly).

Phil

You're doing a great job with the updates Dave! Now, more pics of food! I love the food pics!

Dave

Noted - and I want to write a bit about what I've been eating - not too exotic, possibly bordering on boring! :) I'm sure things will get funkier in Asia.