For most people, Belize conjures images of crystal clear Caribbean waters and world class diving, however in May 2006, I discovered the interior jungles are filled with mystery and adrenaline-pumping adventures.

The highlight of my two week backpacking trip through this unique country was a 3-hour cave tour of Actun Tunichil Muknal (“ATM”), also known as the Cave of the Stone Sepulcher. The Mayans used the cave over 1,200 years ago for ritual sacrifices.

The expedition began with a 45-minute drive from San Ignacio, a city near the western border with Guatemala, to the entrance of the park which contained the cave. Our eight person group hiked for 20 minutes along a jungle trail, wading across three streams, until we arrived at a staging area used by Thomas Miller, the archaeologist who discovered ATM in 1986. It consisted of a campfire site, outhouse, and small roofed area.

We donned our helmets and headlamps, climbed down a small bank, and began to swim upstream into the ominously dark, hourglass-shaped entrance of the cave. After a few minutes, the headlamps were our only source of light, while the cool water being splashed around was the only sound. Walking single file, my eyes were consistently focused on the foot placement of the person in front of me. Twisting an ankle or falling on the slippery rocks was a real danger. Our guide navigated us through spaces small enough to confound a contortionist.

Eventually, we arrived upon a giant boulder, which we climbed up in order to reach the dry chambers containing ancient Mayan pottery and remains. Due to the sensitive nature of the archaeological site, we were all required to wear socks, which were sopping wet by this point. Great care was given to walk only where our guide walked, as we navigated through the eerie chambers of stalactites and stalagmites.

The ultimate reward for our efforts was the opportunity to climb up a 12-foot ladder to a small chamber containing the full, calcified skeletal remains of a young woman who had been sacrificed to the Mayan Gods.

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This experience left me feeling like Indiana Jones. It was truly one of the greatest adventures of my life. Tour entries into ATM are timed so you rarely run into others. Group size is limited to about 8 people. Many tour companies across Belize offer trips to Actun Tunichil Muknal, however it is easiest to access from the small city of San Ignacio. I signed up for a tour one day in advance, at a cost of $80, through Mayawalk Tours. The drive and cave guide were both excellent. See all of my photos from backpacking in Belize on Flickr.

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The Panty Ripper, Singapore Sling, and Cuba Libre reflect just a few of the tasty libations which await travelers abroad. As for me, I tend to seek out and enjoy the national beers of the countries I visit (Imperial, Belikin, Heineken, Guinness). Taking shots is a drinking experience I (thankfully) left behind in college….or so I thought!

I was hanging out with some British army troops on my second night in Belize when a girl with us suggested we drink some tequila. Normally, I’m not a fan, however I sucked down the first shot to fulfill my duty to the group. When it came time for the second shot, it was suggested that we do a special combination move (I forgot the exact name). You may know the classic approach to tequila shots as licking the salt from your hand, taking the shot, and putting a lime wedge in your mouth. Well this special approach involved snorting salt, taking the shot, and squeezing lime juice into your eye.

I can be very stubborn at times, and I made sure to assert myself at this point in the night. The girl even tried to bribe me with a view of her underwear if I’d take part. Unless she intended to up the ante, I was content to watch.

What’s the strangest mixed drink or shot combination you’ve encountered while traveling?

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1. The Snorkeler (Belize, 2006) – I’m literally a fish out of water when it comes to snorkeling, so I was in no position to argue underwater when my tour mate Andrea asked for my underwater disposable camera so she could snap this winner of me!

2. The Spelunker (Belize, 2006) – To preserve the 1,000 year old Mayan archeology sites within the dry chambers of Actun Tunichil Muknal (cave of the stone sepulcher), all visitors are required to wear socks. This photo was taken after we exited the cave, which has a stream running through it, and requires you get rather wet. And how about that hard hat!

3. The Seducer (Belize, 2006) – After a few nights of partying with British army troops on R&R, I snapped this photo of my new (very straight) friend Darren in a girl’s bikini and towel after he spent the night sleeping in her room (on the floor I might add). Yes, Darren was right, this picture was bound to end up on the Internet!

4. The Zipliner (Costa Rica, 2005) – I had this photo snapped of myself after spending an hour with SkyTrek, ziplining throughout the Montaverde Cloud Forest Preserve. It was exhilarating, and I proudly displayed the piece of metal that kept me tied to the cables. Notice how I’m still rocking the harness gear around my waist and crotch, along with another protective hard hat!

5. The Homer Simpson – Doh! (Costa Rica, 2005) – This is the view to the left of me on a quiet beach in Puerto Viejo. You might be wondering why I think it’s hilarious. Notice the clothes and sunglasses on the log? That’s what the beautiful 18-year old English girl Alice was wearing before she began to sun herself in a bikini farther to the right. I find it funny that I took a picture of an empty beach, rather than her, after she had me put sun tan lotion on her back. Doh!

Please share your thoughts and comments on these photos, I’d love to hear them!

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“I love habanero hot sauce” was a proclamation entirely out of character for me before my trip to Belize in May 2006.

My family wasn’t much for hot sauce when I was growing up. We were a typical ketchup-loving American family (think The Wonder Years). Actually, most of the food we ate on a daily basis was devoid of hot chilies and spiciness. I use to gasp at my Asian friend’s ability to put hot sauce on everything back then. It wasn’t until my early twenties that I first tried Thai food, and began to appreciate the heat of chilies and various peppers.

Habaneros grow well in Belize, and Marie Sharp’s hot sauce is a proud product of the region, as evidenced by it’s ubiquity in all restaurants, convenience stores, and gift shops. After a few days of seeing the same bottles, I finally broke down and tried it with some tortilla chips. It was HOT! It was two steps above the spiciness I had grown to tolerate in the States, and ironically, for the first time, I found myself reaching for hot sauce as a regular condiment at meals. There was something wonderfully masochistic about feeling the burn on my tongue and lips. The more I consumed it, the more the heat grew on me. Eventually, French fries or chips tasted bland without it.

I brought a bottle home with me as a souvenir. I enjoyed it on waffles and organic tortilla chips. I began to try other hot sauces. I received a sample of Dave’s Gourmet hot sauces for this past Christmas. It included “Insanity” sauce. I figured I was a habanero pro, and put a test drop of the stuff on a chip. I put that chip in my mouth and suddenly realized there’s a BIG difference between my beloved Marie Sharp’s Belizean habanero sauce and Dave’s insanity sauce. I went straight for the fridge to pour a glass of milk as my throat caught fire. Before I could do so, it happened. I sneezed. The sauce diverted from my throat, and up my nasal passage instead! I was beside myself (leave a comment if you know an effective way to wash hot sauce out of your nose). The sample bottle went straight to the garbage – EVIL!

As I was saying, I love habanero hot sauce!

Who out there is with me!?

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The following journal entry was written on my third day in Belize, Saturday, May 13, 2006:

4:44 pm

I pedaled another 15 minutes and reached Captain Morgan’s resort. I had a beer and water at the bar. Scoped the scene. A lot of young and old American couples. Looked nice enough but was missing character, reality! It’s a designed fantasy – contrived. I suppose it’d be nice for a honeymoon experience, but not something I’ll be doing anytime soon. I made good time back, on purpose due to the blazing heat. It cost $5 for three hours. It was a 6 mile roundtrip ride. Picture this – riding down a sandy path, under the blazing noon sun, Caribbean just a stone’s throw away, listening to Bob Marley – One Love, Three Little Birds, and Jammin’. Amazing, I told myself. After I lost the bike, got an ice cream, I walked past Cannibals, and was surprised to see Darren and Kenny, with Carmela, and the other dudes. They took a later boat – 3:30 pm. I got some pictures. Darren asked me for something uniquely American, so I gave him my Washington, DC pen, the $3 one! Kenny gave me an English VIP card for a bar. An hour later, they sadly went off and I have to admit, I was a bit sad to see them go. Good fun. I turned and started talking to a pretty Canadian girl – Jamie. Turns out she’s nearing the end of a three month Central American trip with her boyfriend. We’ll both be in Caye Caulker as well. Carmela said it’s much quieter over there – perfect. Probably like Cahuita vs. Puerto Viejo in Costa Rica. I’m going to take the 9:30 am boat I think. $10 one way. A Rastafarian, The Lyrical King, tried to sell me a CD. He’ll be playing at Cannibals from 7:30-11 pm so I’ll be checking him out after a nice dinner at the Jamaican jerk place. Going to take it easy on the beer tonight.

I read a little more of my Buddhist book, “Awakening the Buddhist Heart” by Lama Surya Das. No rush. It’s a lot to absorb and I’m in no hurry. I’m glad I brought my linen shirt. It’s perfect – well ventilated.

**Round the World 2008**

The waves breaking over the reef seem so close – they’re really a few miles away.

Remember this feeling – use it to stay motivated for a bigger trip. The excitement of seeing wild sharks, a pet monkey, bicycling the coast to Bob Marley and Ben Harper. Remember the Brits – their good humor and high tolerance. Remember Andrea, and her good-hearted parents who invited me on a 3-day catamaran trip. Remember the breeze, view, loneliness, friendliness, sense of wonder, awe, beauty, desire. Remember to appreciate your surroundings regardless of where you are living, traveling or lay resting. Remember to take one step at a time, slow down, enjoy the ride. Remember to stay positive – you can do it, I can do it, single girls are out and about, along with the guys. Peace, love, and happiness. I’m going to write-out my MP3 play list. I’ve heard two people who’ve had their iPods stolen.

Ricky – 9-year old spider monkey. I love it when the sun goes down, and those cool breezes kick up. I’m not breaking new ground, by most of what I do on these trips, but the people, bonds, conversations are unique and beautiful (epiphany).

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Read more about my trip to Belize in 2006.

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